Light Wiring

Below you will find a series of pictures I took during this project and some descriptions of things to do on yours....

Wire Strippers	4 - Female Quick Disconnects	5mm Allen Wrench
Wire Cutters	12-14 Gauge Wire	8, 10 and 12 mm Socket / Ratchet
Wire Crimper	30 Amp Automotive Relay	Wire Taps
Electrical Tape	Torch / Heat Gun / Lighter	1 Ring Lug and 1 Spade Lug
Heat Shrink	Wire Loom / Braided Sleeving
2 - Female Bullet Connectors	20 Amp Automotive Fuse / Holder

First, the lights come pre-terminated with the quick disconnect shown in Picture #1 below. You will need two of the female
bullet connector ends as shown in Picture #2.

An automotive relay is essential so you will not over draw current on an existing circuit chancing a blown fuse or
burning up wires, ignition switch, etc. Shown in Picture #3 is a standard $5.00 automotive 30 Amp relay available at any automotive
store or Radio Shack. You can get them some places for about a buck. Shown is a 5 pole, a 4 pole will work also.
I just took this one off of my Jeep project for now....

I am opting to sleeve the wiring with the metallic looking mesh shown in Picture #4 available from
J.C.Whitney. You will also need some heat shrink in various sizes for this project to do it cleanly.

Here is my first sleeving of one of the light wires. I slid the sleeve on and used a piece of heat shrink to seal the end.
This keeps the sleeve from fraying. For those of you who haven't used heat shrink, it is a rubbery feeling sleeve you
cut to fit and slide over your wiring and connectors. You then heat the tubing with a heat gun, lighter, or like me I use a
Benzomatic torch. DO NOT heat the sleeve as it melts REAL fast! Its not real metal!

You should also employ an automotive fuse in this circuit for protection. The fuse should be placed as close to the battery
source as possible. In the event of a short circuit, the fuse will blow and spare the wire of damage. This one is equipped
with a 20 amp fuse. Of course you will need some wire.

A good pair of pliers used to cut, crimp, and strip wires. I recommend a Klein as shown in Picture #9!!
Using the wire strippers, strip about 1/4" of insulation off the end of the wire as shown in Picture #10.

Crimp the female bullet connector on the end of the wire using the blue dot on the crimper to match the lug.
I added heat shrink here in Picture #11 but decided I put it on at the wrong time. Hind sight. Sleeve the wire and THEN
heat shrink the end. Connect it to the light wire connector and then heat shrink the whole assembly as shown in Picture #12.
Now the connection is sealed from the elements but can be disconnected without cutting the wire in the event it ever became necessary.

Figure out where you wish to place the relay. I placed mine behind the plastic neck cover in front of the gas tank.
There was much room up here. You probably have room to install it under your seat but I have a remote light controller
mounted under there to control my purple LED lights so I was out of room. Once the location is determined you can cut the
wires to reach from the lights. Route them behind the headlight assembly and behind the neck cover. Once they reach the
relay mounting location, strip the ends of both light wires, twist them together, and connectorize them with a female quick disconnect
terminal as shown in Picture #13. Heat Shrink the connector all the way to the end. This will prevent it from grounding against
any engine components.

Here is the schematic for an automotive relay. Looking under the relay you will find each terminal labeled (85, 86, 87, and 30).
When a circuit is completed between pins 85 and 86 via either a ground throw or a voltage source (i.e., headlamp assembly),
the relay is tripped to complete the circuit across pins 30 and 87. Connect the light wire to pin 87.

Next lets run the trigger wire from the headlamp assembly. To do this, remove the headlamp assembly
from the triple tree. Remove the two 12mm nuts shown in Picture #14 below.

Next you need to open the headlamp assembly by removing the two 8mm nuts shown in Picture #15. These are under the
headlamp assembly and have some spacer washers on them, don't drop them! Set them aside for replacement in a moment.

Once those bolts are remove, separate the back of the assembly from the front ring at the bottom and slide the upper part out.
There is a retaining lip at the top. Pull the connector off of the bulb and slide the connector out of the back of the housing
and set the housing aside. Carefully cut away some of the sleeving from the stock harness to expose the wires
as shown in Picture #16.

Using a wire tap (blue square in picture #17), tap the relay trigger wire (previously sleeved if desired) from terminal 85
on the relay either onto the white wire for use of the auxiliary lights on low beams, or on the blue wire for use
with only the high beams.

Re-assemble the headlamp and replace. The relay now needs a good ground source. I ran a wire under the seat
to an existing factory ground bolt. To get to it, remove the rear seat if equipped by unbolting the 10mm nut just
behind it as shown in Picture #18.

Lift the rear of the seat and slide it back to disengage it from the bracket. Using a 5mm Allen Wrench, Undo the front seat mounting bolts as shown in Picture #19.

Well, yours probably doesn't look this bad! I have an extra harness and relay here for the LED lights that
make the engine glow purple at night. This is for a remote that I can switch on and off in my pocket!
Refer to Picture #21. You need to run the Ground wire from the relay to the bolt shown in the bottom left
of the picture. This was either a 10 or 12mm. I used a spade lug crimped onto the wire and slid it under the
bolt head and tightened it back down.

I drew a green wire representing the ground wire to the relay and a red fused wire representing the Battery
positive supply. I did not get pictures after the install. Oops. Anyhow that is what it looks like. The Battery is
located just under the bundle of wires at the top of the picture. Run your power wire here and crimp a ring lug
to it. Bolt it to the battery positive lead and you are done!

If desired, you could use a switch on your handle bars or wherever you wish to attach it. Make it a ground
throw and run it to the ground (terminal 86) on the relay. Make a jumper wire form terminal 30 to 85 to always
have a hot on the relay trigger as you are now using terminal 86 as a ground trigger. Just an FYI if you don't
want yours on all the time! You can also add a switch to my relay ground to override the headlamp
trigger in the future.

Gonzo's Light Bar Wiring